jour 9, mardi, le 13 mai - le soir

Fontaine Place de la Concorde #2 2008 05 13, originally uploaded by tintinetmilou.

I love walking around Paris at night. These last few days the evening has still been warm, low 20's, so much more enjoyable. But no matter, every night, everyone is walking until midnight. So much to see, the City looks different than during the day. All of the shops and cafes and monuments are lit up!!! And there is a feeling that you are safe. People come up and talk to you and you don't think that you will be mugged. Tonight, a young guy on a bike asked me if I thought his Nikon lens could be fixed, he had dropped his camera while riding his bike and he saw I had a Nikon camera (don't know why he thought I could help). So sad, remember to hold onto the camera strap!!!
The other night, I was walking near Place de la Madeleine with my camera around my neck when an attractive black woman said, "Monsieur, vous aimez prendre les photos?" Now how friendly is that!!!! I replied "Ca me fait plaisir". She laughed and kept walking in the opposite direction, pausing and turning her head at the end of the street to see if I had changed direction.

Walking back along Place des Vosges at 12:30 tonight going to the apartment felt like I could live here forever. Only what would I do for money??

Oh well, three more days left, and then time to plan the next visit.

jour 9, mardi, le 13 mai

basilique saint denis 2008 05 13, originally uploaded by tintinetmilou.

Last day of sunny summer weather (per the forecasts) so off to Giverny I go!!! While lining up for the train ticket at Saint-Lazare met an older Australian couple (probably 55) who had no idea what they were doing so I helped them get their tickets. They sat with me on the train and even though they'd been in Paris for five days they hadn't a clue. Wondered why everyone sat at cafes to drink coffee or have a meal with friends. Why didn't they invite 5 or 10 friends over for a barbecue, it would be so much cheaper? Had no idea that they lived in small apartments and needed to get out, especially when meeting friends. I informed them of several of my misconceptions about Parisians and the French and they said thanks as they really didn't know a thing about the country or the people. They were off to Avignon in a day or so and I said they'd love the Pope's Palace, they hadn't even heard of it (that is what defines Avignon). They told me where they'd been in Paris, but I found it difficult to understand what they were saying. Galeries Lafayette was the hardest to decipher, it took me five attempts, with him having to explain that it was a store with clothes and perfume, etc. On the train were many Americans and Australians. Some of their lack of trying amazed and infuriated me. The top one was a few days ago when an American wife, in front of the Panthenon, said to her husband, that "it is very big, I wonder if our ..... mall is bigger?" Being trapped for several hours today on the train and at Giverny was quite the experience. Pronunciation disasters forced to listen to: Musey Dorsey (think he was a big band leader), Gare Saint Laser (need to wear protective glasses to avoid retinal damage), Place of the Concords (first word rhymes with face)and on and on. I felt like offering any of them 20 Euros if they could try, to have some fun and put on a cartoon French accent (haven't they watched Pepe le Peu??).

At Vernon had to get on a bus, and good for the bus driver, she spoke only French. Totally understandable for what her job was, get the passengers on, say 4 Euros (oh yes she would say 4 in English if asked, but everything else in French: mercis, au revoir, a toute a l'heure.... Some of them were miffed. Ha!!! Unfortunately the young Parisians are now in the majority speaking English, so going to Paris is becoming more like going to Montreal. You mispronounce, stumble in your French and immediately they switch to English.

Well Giverny. Not for people that have a fear of crowds. Our bus arrived ten minutes after it opened and already the tour bus groups were in and lining up to get in. Okay, pay and make a mad dash for the water gardens. The elderly and infirm didn't stand a chance. One grandmotherly Chinese woman hipchecked me into submission; no one was getting by her!!! The first half hour was bearable but after that you couldn't move. Several people commented that it was supposed to be a peaceful place but not with the crowds. One woman said it should be like a public pool full of kids, once it gets too crowded, you shut it down and tell everyone to get out of the pool and start all over again. Makes you wonder if Van Gogh visited Monet here and seeing all of the tour buses went mad and cut off his ear!!! And the gift shop, it was like a shark feeding frenzy. They must have a warehouse somewhere in the village to restock everything daily. If only I could have a garden, paint a few pictures there, sell them for a couple of million each, then I also could have crowds lining up to see some tulips and geraniums. Actually it was the change of season, the geraniums were just being planted today. It is a wonderful place but the crowds spoiled it for me. And when I was leaving three hours later the tour buses were still bringing them in and another train from Paris had just arrived.........

Needed peace after that and headed to the north east of the city to see again the Basilique Saint-Denis. Very special place and because it hasn't been popularized and because during the metro ride you are mixing with more of a working class/black population, not very busy at all!!! An oasis of calm and reflection. Love all the statues inside of the Kings, Dukes, etc. Spent a very long time inside, will always go back on future trips.

Back to the Marais for a walk around before another tasty home cooked meal (yum).

jour 8, lundi, le 8 mai

Opera Garnier 2008 05 12, originally uploaded by tintinetmilou.

Once again a very hot sunny day. Was out in the sun too long, even with SPF 185 sunscreen (or some number like that still managed to get burned). Everyone in Paris either has a burn (for some reason mainly the guys) while the women don't seem to burn, they just develop a lovely golden brown tan (yum).

Off to the Tuileries garden, then Place de la Madeleine. Eglise St. Augustus was closed. A lot of the stores and cafes were closed, last Thursday was a National holiday (VE day) and the weekend was Pentecost, so I guess Monday was a day off for some and not others.

Walked along les Grands Boulevards and then to Place de l'Opera. Tried to see inside the other day but a performance was going on, this time not a problem. The price was 8 Euros, which I originally thought was a bit steep, but once you walk around you won't regret the price. Simply amazing, is a highlight, wonder why I never thought of visiting before, guess not on many suggested lists. After down to Pont Neuf and Pont des Arts. Extended stay at the square at the side of Notre Dame to watch the street entertainment, the rollerbladers going through pylons were great. The girls in the crowd enjoyed the white guys rapping/hip hopping.

jour 7, dimanche, le 7 mai

Couple kanoodling St Paul Metro 2008 05 11, originally uploaded by tintinetmilou.

Up early. Quick tour of the deserted Marais, stumbled upon a late-night/early morning couple kanoodling on a bench near St Paul metro "Y'a des hôtels pour ça!"

Then Notre Dame/Ile de la Cite/Ile St-Louis. So nice with no one around, just a few joggers and store owners setting up for the tourist trade. Love the Sunday morning bird/fish market next to Cite metro station.

Then off to Montmartre before the crowds!! St. Vincent and Montmartre cimetieres. Obligatory photos of Dalida and Nijinsky at Montmartre. Always wondered why there were so many cats at Montmartre Cimetiere, well met one reason why, an old gentleman who goes around feeding the cats!!! He has an official looking identity badge and collects money from whomever stops to talk with him (has an Aunt in Victoria). Very cute to see him walking through the graves, very well dressed, carrying two large and heavy sacks of dry food and some foul looking gooey food that cats love.

Back at my metro, Breguet-Sabin they were having the Sunday market. Very colourful with all types of food products and all different ethnic groups of vendors and shoppers.

At night went out to take some night photos of the Seine around Place de la Concorde.

Discovered that one of my cards is corrupt and I lost some of today's photos (so sad).

jour 6, samedi, le 6 mai

sans papiers, mais pas sans droits!! - place de budapest #2 2008 05 10, originally uploaded by tintinetmilou.

The haze is gone and bright sun has returned - 27 to 28 degrees. About 8 degrees above normal and Vancouver is probably 5 degrees below normal. It is going to be a shock to return next Saturday, at least I've had my Summer!!!

Very busy day and one strange occurrence where someone tried to steal my passport!!

Started okay, off to marche aux timbres where there weren't many tables setup and no buyers. Probably not a hot summer day kind of activity.

Then to the Grand Palais to see the interior. Beautiful wrought iron and glass structure. Had to pay to get in as there was art on display by Richard Serra. This is contemporary art that consists of multiple and seemingly identical perpendicular metal slabs. Is this art? Certainly was interesting to see the effort, support staff and high level of security involved. Read more at:
http://www.monumenta.com/2008/

Then off to the Palais Royal to see the garden, etc. This is where I had my adventure. A man comes up to me with a tourist map of Paris and asks me if I speak French. I respond not very well. He then asks me where the Louvre is, which is very strange because it is right across the street. I point to where it is on the map but he doesn't seem interested. Asks me where I'm from, say from Canada. And you don't speak French? Seconds later a shorter man wearing sometype of uniform comes over and says "money exchange is illegal" and then "Passport Control"; he waits a few seconds and says "Show me your Passports!". At the same time he flashes some sort of ID that I can see has the French Flag on it but closes it before I can see anything else. Well I think to myself, what is going on here? Illegal to change money? Maybe in Russia but certainly not France (the first guy had an Eastern European accent). Secondly, why was a French government official/police speaking English; even if they can government officials refuse to speak English (they'll use hand signals though). Thirdly, if money exchange was illegal would the French government be using "Passport Control" officials in the center of Paris to control it? And do most Parisians who would be involved in such illegal practices be carrying passports with them? All that went through my heat exhausted mind in 15 seconds. Then the first guy immediately pulls out his passport (or something that looks like a passport) and hands it to the Passport Control official. Who the heck carries their passport with them and then can pull it out so quickly (not in a money belt?). That was enough for me but I asked to see his ID again and he obliged, but too quickly to see anything. I said open it up and then laughed. I told him that this must be a joke, the top said Government of France, there was a nice French Flag underneath that, and then the words Passport Control (not in French?) and then wait for it...... it said name and surname (pas nom et prenom) and guess what, his name wasn't even filled in. I just walked away rather hurriedly hoping an inept division of the Russian Mafia wasn't going to use violence to get my valuable Canadian passport. Usually everywhere you look in Paris there is some level of Police around, but not there. As I was walking from that neighbourhood I did notice alot of people with East European accents.

After that walked and walked and walked.....
Opera Garnier, will have to go back, they wouldn't let us inside as a matinee performance was about to start. Then a very large and long demonstration at Place de Budapest. Started in the 18th arrondisement and was heading south to who knows where?? Fighting for the rights of illegal aliens not to be deported, especially children that were born in France and have no right to go to school. I've even read about this in the past so this is still a big issue. Quite amazing to see the turnout, political action/protests are still going strong in France unlike at home.

Off to Parc Monceau where I encountered a group arriving to have wedding pictures taken. Then on the other side of Paris to Canal Saint-Martin; one of my favourite spots, though because of the weather looked more like a beach.

Back at my metro station encountered a Tam Tam performance (don't know if that's what they call it here, but that's what it is called in Montreal). Everyone joins in, the leader has a whistle and when he blows it, the beat/rhythm changes.

jour 5, vendredi, le 9 mai

Musée Carnavalet interior #4 2008 05 09, originally uploaded by tintinetmilou.

A relaxing day after the previous days. Got up late, wandered around the Marais, still very crowded, wait until Sunday!!! Loved the Musée Carnavalet, not what I expected, Mary will love it on our next visit. Up to Arc de Triomphe, large French flag hanging for VE day (yesterday). Then a walk down the Champs Elysees with a stop at the new Citroen showroom. Amazing design and display, worth a trip. Don't know how many cars it will sell but instills the image of creativity. Then past the Grand Palais to the Pont Alexandre III. On the Invalides side of the bridge protesters were chanting "Hezbollah Terroristes" and "Iraq Terroristes", but only when the cameras were on.

Some grocery shopping at G20 on rue St. Antoine(remember Mary?)

jour 4, jeudi, le 8 mai

Bruxelles - Bande Dessinée - Tintin, Capitaine Haddock et Milou 2008 05 08, originally uploaded by tintinetmilou.

Didn't sleep well Wednesday night as somewhere in the building a bunch of Anglos were having a party. Loud noise, singing and the sounds of furniture being thrown!!! Of course when my alarm went off in the morning I didn't wake up. But then by luck I woke up and saw the time and said I've got 40 minutes to get ready, get to the metro and get to Gare du Nord. It reminded me so much of my trip last summer where Mary and I were making mad dashes to get to the train on time. And like then I was lucky again. Caught the metro just in time, the next one would have been too late!!!

Thalys TGV to Bruxelles. Bruxelles is much nicer in warm weather. First thing was to take the metro to the end of line 1b to Stockel station. There both sides of the platform has a mural of Tintin characters and situations by Herge.

Then to the Grand Place and Mannekin Pis and then the cartoon wall walk. With a long stop at the Centre Belge de la Bande Dessinée.

Back to the Grand Place at the end of the day. The number of tourists was amazing. It is a beautiful place, chocolate, waffles, beer, etc.

The day was very long and I was tired from the lack of sleep. Up at 6:00, 11 hours there, with a 1 1/2 hour train trip each way. Similar if not identical to my workday!!!!!

Sleeping in tomorrow.

jour 3, mercredi, le 7 mai

Jeanne d'Arc Place du Martroi Orléans 2008 05 07, originally uploaded by tintinetmilou.

Couldn't make up mind as whether to go to Orleans as very tired from the day before. Decided to go at the last minute anyway. Had to line up forever to buy a simple train ticket as our North America credit cards still do not have security chips (puce) in them.

Well what to say about Orleans. You can see everything in 2 hours and unfortunately the first thought that enters your mind, this is not as great as Paris!!!!! Why didn't I stay in Paris for the day? Well the answer is to see some of the history of Jeanne d'Arc; I've been to Reims (coronation of the Dauphin) and Rouen (her trial and execution). One day I'll be off to Domremy (her childhood home is still there).

Well off to Bruxelles tomorrow for another historical character, a bit more recent, but just as celebrated, Tintin. Of course the thing about Bruxelles is, that it is not Paris!!!

More photos at:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tintinetmilou/

Jour 2, mardi, le 6 mai

Pantheon - Jeanne d'Arc 2008 05 06, originally uploaded by tintinetmilou.

Very busy day. Summer weather, very sunny and hot.
Walked around the neighbourhood, one short block to Place des Vosges, etc. Then along the right bank of the Seine to Saint Gervais, near Hotel de Ville. Then Ile de la Cite and Notre Dame. Then to the left bank and St. Germain and the Album stores (Tintin), stopping off at Saint Severin. After to the Pantheon and the frescoes of Jeanne D'Arc. Next door to the Pantheon, Eglise St-Etienne-du-Mont. Then to my favourite park - Jardin du Luxembourg, very Summery, shorts and sunbathers. Watched people playing petanque, tennis and chess.

Finally in the evening Sainte Chapelle and a concert by Les Archets. 12 hours non-stop, not bad for the first day.

Off to Paris, encore!!!!

2008 05 05_0024, originally uploaded by tintinetmilou.

I arrived safely. Flight was even more delayed. Lots of babies on the flight, the flight was packed, but the seat next to me was empty. A couple, their baby and the mother's mother were sitting in three seats in the center. They managed to convince the flight attendant to move their mother so that the baby could have room to sleep. I pointed out that there were mother's on their own and probably could use the extra seat more than they could. Well they won and I lost, the mother was a crazy, complaining piece of work. It was like sitting next to Shirley W for 9 hours. Luckily I had my IPOD, so that I could tune her out.

The train in was uneventful, except helped a cute/shy early 20's find her way around on the RER and subsequently at Gare du Nord. She's renting an apartment for 1 month by herself!!!!!!

Met Isis, very nice. She's is so proud of her little apartment. She's renting it out part time and doing her massage therapy in it the other. The apartment is well laid out but not very much space. Current rent has gone from 700US$ to 500 or 550 Euros (I got a deal).

In the evening went for a walk around Place des Vosges and stopped off at the Monoprix on rue St. Antoine to buy a few things.