13 May 2008

jour 9, mardi, le 13 mai



Last day of sunny summer weather (per the forecasts) so off to Giverny I go!!! While lining up for the train ticket at Saint-Lazare met an older Australian couple (probably 55) who had no idea what they were doing so I helped them get their tickets. They sat with me on the train and even though they'd been in Paris for five days they hadn't a clue. Wondered why everyone sat at cafes to drink coffee or have a meal with friends. Why didn't they invite 5 or 10 friends over for a barbecue, it would be so much cheaper? Had no idea that they lived in small apartments and needed to get out, especially when meeting friends. I informed them of several of my misconceptions about Parisians and the French and they said thanks as they really didn't know a thing about the country or the people. They were off to Avignon in a day or so and I said they'd love the Pope's Palace, they hadn't even heard of it (that is what defines Avignon). They told me where they'd been in Paris, but I found it difficult to understand what they were saying. Galeries Lafayette was the hardest to decipher, it took me five attempts, with him having to explain that it was a store with clothes and perfume, etc. On the train were many Americans and Australians. Some of their lack of trying amazed and infuriated me. The top one was a few days ago when an American wife, in front of the Panthenon, said to her husband, that "it is very big, I wonder if our ..... mall is bigger?" Being trapped for several hours today on the train and at Giverny was quite the experience. Pronunciation disasters forced to listen to: Musey Dorsey (think he was a big band leader), Gare Saint Laser (need to wear protective glasses to avoid retinal damage), Place of the Concords (first word rhymes with face)and on and on. I felt like offering any of them 20 Euros if they could try, to have some fun and put on a cartoon French accent (haven't they watched Pepe le Peu??).

At Vernon had to get on a bus, and good for the bus driver, she spoke only French. Totally understandable for what her job was, get the passengers on, say 4 Euros (oh yes she would say 4 in English if asked, but everything else in French: mercis, au revoir, a toute a l'heure.... Some of them were miffed. Ha!!! Unfortunately the young Parisians are now in the majority speaking English, so going to Paris is becoming more like going to Montreal. You mispronounce, stumble in your French and immediately they switch to English.

Well Giverny. Not for people that have a fear of crowds. Our bus arrived ten minutes after it opened and already the tour bus groups were in and lining up to get in. Okay, pay and make a mad dash for the water gardens. The elderly and infirm didn't stand a chance. One grandmotherly Chinese woman hipchecked me into submission; no one was getting by her!!! The first half hour was bearable but after that you couldn't move. Several people commented that it was supposed to be a peaceful place but not with the crowds. One woman said it should be like a public pool full of kids, once it gets too crowded, you shut it down and tell everyone to get out of the pool and start all over again. Makes you wonder if Van Gogh visited Monet here and seeing all of the tour buses went mad and cut off his ear!!! And the gift shop, it was like a shark feeding frenzy. They must have a warehouse somewhere in the village to restock everything daily. If only I could have a garden, paint a few pictures there, sell them for a couple of million each, then I also could have crowds lining up to see some tulips and geraniums. Actually it was the change of season, the geraniums were just being planted today. It is a wonderful place but the crowds spoiled it for me. And when I was leaving three hours later the tour buses were still bringing them in and another train from Paris had just arrived.........

Needed peace after that and headed to the north east of the city to see again the Basilique Saint-Denis. Very special place and because it hasn't been popularized and because during the metro ride you are mixing with more of a working class/black population, not very busy at all!!! An oasis of calm and reflection. Love all the statues inside of the Kings, Dukes, etc. Spent a very long time inside, will always go back on future trips.

Back to the Marais for a walk around before another tasty home cooked meal (yum).

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