08 December 2010

jour 10, mercredi, le 8 decembre

Katarina feeling better today.

Off to Strasbourg to see the Christmas markets. Weather not too bad at the beginning, but by 3pm incessant downpour!!! We're soaking wet and miserable and then my umbrella breaks.

Still manage to buy a couple of Christmas ornaments at Kathe Wohlfahrt.

Headed back early to the Gare Centrale to get out of the rain.

Finally in the train back to Paris. This was a wasted day. The train arrives 40 minutes late due to the severe weather between Strasbourg and Paris.

In Paris we see the result of the major snowfall that occured during the day. Per the news it is the most snowfall experienced in the last 23 years.

Thankfully the final 3 days are forecasted to be much better.

07 December 2010

jour 9, mardi, le 7 decembre

Katarina is still sick today, so stayed behind.

George and I went to the Invalides to see Napoleon's tomb and the Army museum. We looked at the suits of armour, etc. and skipped the first and second world war.

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Saw an interesting new multimedia display on the life of Charles de Gaulle. Also a temporary exhibition on the Tsar's and their guards.

Once we arrived at the museum the snow was coming down heavily. Very treacherous to walk on leaving.

After, went to La Fontaine Sully for a late lunch. George had steak & frites and I had pot au feu.

Back to the apartment to look after Katarina. Then took George to Gare du Nord for his return back to England.

06 December 2010

jour 8, lundi, le 6 decembre

Off to the Monet exhibition at the Galeries Nationale.

Had tickets for 10:30. Unfortunately, they allowed too many non-reserved ticket holders to enter and therefore the first half of the exhibition was a claustrophic crush.

The exhibition was wonderful. Rented the audio guide at the assistance of the museum staff. Funny thing about language. She said, in French, that we should rent it. I responded, in French, that we would rent two and that they should be set to English. She then explained, in French, how to operate the "English" audio guide.

After the Monet exhibition back to the apartment, with doing a quich stop to do some shopping.

Then to Montmartre. Stop at Pigalle metro so that we can walk by the "Sex" area.

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Then up rue Lepic to have a late lunch at the Cafe des Deux Moulins featured in the Amelie movie starring Audrey Tautou. Croque Monsieur/Madames were our selections. Katarina had the Monsieur while George and I had the Madame.

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Then a visit to Collignon's, also featured in Amelie. Unfortunately it was closed.

A walk up to Sacre Coeur, down rue Cortot (former apartment rented at Number 3) and then a quick visit to St. Vincent Cemetery.

Back to the apartment as Katarina was not feeling well. Luckily we made it back on the metro to the apartment. She soon was sound asleep. Dinner was soup and Quiche as couldn't go out and leave Katarina alone.

jour 7, dimanche, le 5 decembre

George arrives today.

Out to the market to buy dinner.

Then a walk to Marche Aligre to see another market that is a bit different in that it not only contains food but also bric a brac. Saw some interesting items at the flea market area, but fortunately, my inner voice said "Dad you don't need that".

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On the way there stopped a a park to watch table tennis being played on outdoor tables. Another reason I admire the French. They also had one "Foosball" table, unfortunately did not have a spare ball on me.

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Then to Gare du Nord to pick up George. Saw an interesting Orangina sign there.

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Checked George into the hotel. Then walked around the Marais. Went into the Musee Carnavalet. Very nice. Then headed off to Ste-Chapelle to see a classical music concert. It was so cold in Ste-Chapelle. It was like sitting in a refrigerator. The lead violinist, joked at the end of the performance that he appreciated us giving them such a warm welcome.

After, back to the apartment for dinner.

jour 7, samedi, le 4 decembre

The weather was the big issue this morning. Blowing snow!! Looked like a mini blizzard. Accumulation was not a lot, just a few inches, but it made walking on the slippery sidewalks very treacherous.

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Stayed close to home. Went to Mora, the baking shop, to buy some baking pans. Saw E. Dehillirin (cooking shop) and Le Pied de Cochon (restaurant) and walked around St-Eustache. Decided to head to the department store BHV. Looked at the cooking section and the hardware section in the basement. Headed home after this to get out of the snow.

In the afternoon the snow stopped. Went to the left Bank / Boulevard St-Germain to find the Village Voice bookshop for Katarina. Then Église de Saint-Germain-des-Prés. After fresh churros at the Christmas market. Then the Taschen bookstore. Incredible books here. The retrospective book on the photos of Helmut Newton was wonderful. Unfortunately the book was too heavy to carry so unable to buy and bring home.

Then back to Album to look at the BD articles. A walk passed Notre Dame to see the Christmas tree lit up. Stayed up watching Mozart the Rock Opera on DVD and then to bed.

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04 December 2010

jour 6, vendredi, le 3 decembre

Sun/bright skies for today. But COLD again. Doesn't seem that the cold weather that is wreaking havoc on Europe is letting up.

Metro to Gare de l'Est. Large crowds waiting to see if there trains to eastern France/Germany will be running. An Alsace Christmas market was setup at the front of the station.

Spotted the Deutsche Bahn (DB) InterCity Express (ICE) the German equivalent of the TGV.

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Then a short walk to the Canal Saint-Martin. A favourite spot of mine. Lovely backdrop of the bridges, Antoine & Lili and the locks. Very cold as we walked along the Canal.

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Then off to Cimetière du Père-Lachaise; (officially, cimetière de l'Est). Came across a character that made sure we saw certain of the graves: Chopin, Denon, etc. He called us "maple syrup" once he found we were from Canada. His cats live in the Cemetery as his wife is allergic to cats. He said we were very lucky, the Cemetery had been closed because of the snow/ice, wasn't safe to walk. We walked more the experience than to look for "dead celebrities" (also too cold to hold the map). Did see Jim Morrison, Edith Piaf and Oscar Wilde. Also, quite moving are the memorials to the Holocaust Concentration Camps.

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Not tired, but frozen. Back to Monoprix for le shopping and the apartment for dinner.

In the evening off to Gennevillers to the Salle des Fêtes to see Axelle Red. Wonderful concert, Axelle's voice was strong. I had heard her sing on TV a few months ago and her voice was nonexistent, thankfully it must have been temporary. Her between song banter, especially at the beginning, was incoherent rambling.

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Sang many songs that I knew:
Le monde tourne mal (Let's dance)
Parce que c'est toi
Sensualité

Ma Prière
A Tatons

Je t'attends
Manhattan-Kaboul
Friends
Sold to the Man in Gold
Sister

She sang for two hours. Back with a quick walk through an eerily deserted Marais.

03 December 2010

jour 5, jeudi, le 2 decembre

COLD!!!!!
We're during a freak winter cold snap. Train passengers stranded in Germany. Paris airports having problems with ice. Eurostar is having half the trains cancelled due to snow in England/northern France. They've recommended all trips be cancelled until Sunday. George is to travel here on Sunday; we hope he makes it!!!!

Musée d'Orsay first thing. Because of the Monet exhibition and the paintings being removed the top floor has been blocked off for renovation. All of the Van Gogh's, Ronoir's, etc. have been moved to the lower galleries. Also, no photos are allowed anywhere in the museum. I'm hoping this is temporary due to the crowding in the rearranged galleries. Love the interior of the modified train station, some of the statues are amazing.

After, crossed back through the biting wind in the Tuileries and on to Place Vendome. Window shopped and saw a nice watch for 26.000 Euros. Need to check the conversion rate before I buy.

Over to the Madeleine. Went inside to warm up. Checked out the shops including Maille and Fauchon. Inside Fauchon saw many things I wished to buy. Fortunately/unfortunately my inner voice said "Dad you don't need that".

Next to Les Grands Magazins - Printemps and Galeries Lafayette. Was looking forward to the Christmas window displays as they are always incredible. Unfortunately, not this year. Inside Galeries Lafayette went to the incredible "food floor"; I wish our apartment was close by, as there is an incredible variety of food. The cheese display by itself is amazing. Then to the Perfume displays on the ground floor and a look up at the amazing glass ceiling.

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After we went to the Opera Garnier, but couldn't visit as there was a performance on at the time.

Instead, took the line 13 train to Gennevilliers to scope out the location of the Axelle Red concert tomorrow night. Don't want to be fumbling in the dark looking for the theatre in a northern suburb of Paris. Mary knows all to well how frustrating this can be!!!!

Back to the apartment for dinner (Rotisserie chicken and roast potatoes from the butcher by the St. Paul metro). Same staff over the years.

After dinner off to see the Tour Eiffel all lit up. It was freezing cold from Trocadero to the walk to the base of the Tour Eiffel. I asked Katarina if she wanted to go up to the top. "Absolutely not" was the response from her frozen lips.

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Next to the Champs-Élysées to see the avenue all lit up with the Christmas lights. Simply wonderful; would love to be here on New Year's Eve!!!

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Next to the Louvre to see the Pyramide at night. Very spooky walking through the dimly lit arcades of the Louvre; we wouldn't have felt safe if it hadn't been Paris. Hardly anyone at the Pyramide due to the cold. Katarina is getting a false impression of Paris. No lines or crowds; how very different it is in the summer. There are tourists here now, mainly Brits, the Italians/Spaniards don't seem to like the cold.

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Back to the apartment to try our macarons from the Gérard Mulot Mulot bakery on our corner. Two of the four we tried were to die for.

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01 December 2010

jour 4, mercredi, le 1 decembre

Up late today because of last night's concert.

We both put on our thermals today as it is even colder and it was going to snow. Yes indeed, soon as we walked out the door the snow started.

Through the northern Marais to see the wall Philippe Auguste built
(1200 AD) to fortify Paris. Not much of it still remains or is visible, but there is a large section that is on the outside of a school sports field.

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Then to the St-Gervais-et-St-Protais Church near the Hotel de Ville.

Across the Seine to the Left Bank to see the bookstore Shakespeare & Company and to warm ourselves.

Then to the Rue du Chat-qui-Pêche, the narrowest street in Paris. Then through the winding streets of fast food Greek restaurants. It was snowing quite heavily at this point, and cold, and were on our way to the Pantheon when a change of mind made me decide on the Musée de Cluny (Musée du Moyen-Âge). Wish I had gone here sooner. Quite fascinating to see art/relics from 600 years ago. The highlights for me were the heads of the Kings from Notre Dame and the tapestries, especially the most famous being the Lady and the Unicorn.

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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Lady_and_the_Unicorn

After the museum I wished to go to the Pantheon but Katarina wasn't interested on this day. So went to Saint-Étienne-du-Mont. It was very dark inside the church, so different than on my other visits.

After, I thought we would continue with a long walk down St. Germain but the snow was making walking treachurous and also difficult to see. So a stop at the Album stores to warm up and window shop. Great collection of BD (Bande dessinée) and Manga books and figurines in this area. An adult passion in France/Belgium. Many of the books are quite violent and sexually explicit. Over here not everyone has outgrown comic books. Katarina was amazed by the selection/variety on display.

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A walk back to the apartment through the snow, a stop at Miss Manon for a baguette and pastries and back to the apartment for a hot meal.

Talked to George on Skype. He'll be arriving on Sunday to a warmer/wetter Paris (based on the forecast).

A rather shortened day based on the weather conditions. Hopefully the weather will gradually improve!!!!

jour 3, mardi, le 30 novembre

The most interesting aspect of our stay so far is the weather. Very cold. We're fortunate not to have had any significant snow. Nearby areas of France have had significant snowfall and much colder temperatures. Orleans was -15!!!!

Sunshine today. Not a bright sunny day as in summer, but sun peaking through clouds and fog. It is the fog and the wind that makes it seem colder than it is.

Walked to Île de la Cité from the apartment. First stop was Sainte-Chapelle. Security was very strict due to the proximity to the Palais de Justice.

Very beautiful inside with the sunlight shining through the blue stained glass windows. Unfortunately part was blocked due to restoration.

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Walk to Notre Dame to climb the Tours. Unfortunately they were closed, no reason given. I'm assuming it was due to the weather, too cold and icy. We'll go back next week when the weather is to be warmer.

Then to Île Saint-Louis. Difficult to enjoy the walk and shops as the wind was blowing. Went into numerous stores, not to buy or even look, just to warm up.

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Then the metro to the Arc de Triomphe. Very windy here!!! Climbed to the top. The view was not perfect as the fog obscured longer views.

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Then walked down the Champs-Élysées to Place de la Concorde. Went into FNAC where Katarina voiced "you don't need to buy that" (I'll be back ;)) and Sephora.

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Then, starting across from the Grand Palais, visited the Christmas market. Need to go back at night to see all the lights. Most items being sold were very tacky. Snacktime - Crêpes!! Katarina - banana/nutella; Gord - Grand Marnier. I didn't realize that they had overdone the Grand Marnier on mine. Picked it up and the liquor/sugar combination dripped down onto my camera!!! What a sticky mess. Took a while to clean in the apartment; but fortunately it still seems to work.

Walk through Place de la Concorde and then back to the apartment to warm up and have dinner.

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No early bed tonight, as we're off to the Olympia to see Garou.
Opening act was very good and went from 8:30 until 9:00. Garou came on at 9:30 and performed for over 2 hours without stopping!!! His first comment was that the weather in Paris was crazy, so cold, it was like being in Québec!!! He promised to warm up the crowd by singing "Do Ya Think I'm Sexy" and doing his hip moves!! Couple of Québec flags spotted in the crowd.

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Great to hear the crowd sing along to his songs. And such a performer. Sang all of his hits and did covers of Leonard Cohen (Everybody Knows), Elton John (Candle in the Wind), the Beatles (Let it Be/Hey Jude) and Elvis. Absolutely wonderful show, everything from ballads to rock. And, for Katarina's sake, 40% of the songs were in English. The highlight was when he sang Belle from Notre Dame de Paris, everyone sang along and gave him a standing ovation that didn't end until he requested everyone to stop. Garou's show will be difficult to top.

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I had planned to go for a walk in the neighbourhood to see the lights/store displays, but as it was now close to midnight, back on the Métro and off to bed.

29 November 2010

jour 2, lundi, le 29 novembre

Very cold again today. It snowed over night, with a fine dusting on the cars, grass and bushes. Overcast and foggy this morning. Due to the cold, the plan is to do one major thing each day. Today is the Louvre.

Arrived just after opening and there was no one there at security or at the ticket machines!!! I explained to Katarina that the crowds in summer are overwhelming and ruin your visit. This time was the smalles crowds I had ever seen. In many rooms it was just us and the paintings.

Of course, first headed to the Mona Lisa. Only a few people there, a few seconds waiting and you were standing directly in front. Across from the Mona Lisa is the very large Les Noces de Cana. Mary loves this painting and on each visit I oblige her with a photo.

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For the next several hours we visited the large format French paintings, the Napoleon apartments, the Northern Europe area (Dutch/German, etc.) and saw the Rembrandts, Durer... And then my favourite, the two courtyards filled with sculptures. This is one area where the natural light fills the hall and makes it very special. I could spend all day here, sitting and soaking it all in. On visits by myself this is where I go first and spend a long time.

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After a quick sandwich at the Louvre, it was a walk to the Palais Royal. Unfortunately it was under major renovation.

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A quick trip to Galeries Vivienne and then back to Rue de Rivoli to walk under the Arcades. From there cross the street to the Tuileries gardens and ended up to Place de la Concorde. I was still wanting to go on but Katarina was suffering from the cold and her feet were hurting (blister) so took the metro back to the apartment (with a quick stop at Monoprix to buy ingredients for dinner).

The agreement was to go back out after we'd warmed up (to catch the blue light at sunset). However, Katarina once thawed out had no intention of walking for hours again. She stayed and cooked dinner while I headed for the Tour Montparnasse. Unfortunately, when I arrived it was snowing!!! They said it was to be clear. Headed back by way of the Arc de Triomphe and the skies had cleared.

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Took a couple of photos in the cold and then back to the apartment for a wonderful dinner.

Early to bed (which seems to be the norm).