Up early!!! The sun is shining!!!! Left the apartment at 7AM, taxi to Gare du Nord, RER to CDG Terminal 1, ten minute walk to Terminal 3, get tax rebate forms stamped at Customs booth, check-in at Zoom counter. Luckily we're 1 pound under Zoom's weight limit!!! And they didn't make a deal about my carry on bag being slightly over the limit.
And now the long wait, first on the ground and then the 12 hour flight!!
Once in the air and slightly out of Paris the sky clouded up and remained cloudy for most of the trip back. Saw a wonderful film on the flight "Blades of Glory". Amused myself watching the lovely willowy blond as she kept nodding off (with whiplash intensity) from the effects of the gravol she took.
Arrived on time and baggage arrived intact!!!
Back home, everyone happy to see us, especially Toby. Back to work Thursday. Mary starts course tomorrow.
Note: Buy lottery ticket!!!
15 August 2007
Day 16, dimanche, le 12 aout
Very sad I must say, it's our last day before going home tomorrow :(.
Tried packing in the morning without great success. Too many breakable things, including perfume that can't be put in carry on luggage. Finally gave up and went out.
Headed back to the Sephora's to try to get our instant tax (VAT) refund. We had surpassed the Euro limit but on two separate occasions and on two separate days. Mary knew they might say no so she asked me to use my broken French to gain sympathy. The answer was not that the items had to be bought on the same day to qualify, so I indicated that I wished to return the items for a refund and then buy them together and qualify for the tax rebate. The clerk smiled and said yes that would be possible!!!
After we got our rebate headed down the Champs Elysée to look at the designer store windows on Avenue Montaigne (after a stop at the Renault store). The shop windows were great to look at but the prices were astronomical!!!!!
Took the métro to Place Monge and bought some baguette sandwiches to eat at Arene Lutece. Mary loves Roman ruins and brought her here to see this arena/amphitheatre in Paris. Interesting watching the lovers knoodling and the men playing boules/petanque.
After went for a walk in the Jardin des Plantes. First time there, very interesting with a very wild state compared to the Jardin de Luxembourg which is very well manicured. Was going to head off to the Jardin de Luxembourg to see it in the sun but the clouds were coming in and headed off to Musée d'Orsay area off the Seine to walk to the Pont Alexandre III and then the thunder storm happened. Quick dash to the métro and back to the apartment.
After to la Maison Rose for dinner, walkabout to Sacré Coeur, souveneir shops. Back to pack until midnight. Unfortunately rowdy drunks singing at 1:00 AM.
Tried packing in the morning without great success. Too many breakable things, including perfume that can't be put in carry on luggage. Finally gave up and went out.
Headed back to the Sephora's to try to get our instant tax (VAT) refund. We had surpassed the Euro limit but on two separate occasions and on two separate days. Mary knew they might say no so she asked me to use my broken French to gain sympathy. The answer was not that the items had to be bought on the same day to qualify, so I indicated that I wished to return the items for a refund and then buy them together and qualify for the tax rebate. The clerk smiled and said yes that would be possible!!!
After we got our rebate headed down the Champs Elysée to look at the designer store windows on Avenue Montaigne (after a stop at the Renault store). The shop windows were great to look at but the prices were astronomical!!!!!
Took the métro to Place Monge and bought some baguette sandwiches to eat at Arene Lutece. Mary loves Roman ruins and brought her here to see this arena/amphitheatre in Paris. Interesting watching the lovers knoodling and the men playing boules/petanque.
After went for a walk in the Jardin des Plantes. First time there, very interesting with a very wild state compared to the Jardin de Luxembourg which is very well manicured. Was going to head off to the Jardin de Luxembourg to see it in the sun but the clouds were coming in and headed off to Musée d'Orsay area off the Seine to walk to the Pont Alexandre III and then the thunder storm happened. Quick dash to the métro and back to the apartment.
After to la Maison Rose for dinner, walkabout to Sacré Coeur, souveneir shops. Back to pack until midnight. Unfortunately rowdy drunks singing at 1:00 AM.
14 August 2007
Day 16, samedi, le 11 aout
Off to Reims on the TGV. Didn't get up on time so a very mad dash to the métro station, in the stations and to the train at Gare d'Est. Puffing made it to the train, on time!!!!
Encountered two young Americans in our reserved seats. They had a railpass but didn't know that you had to make a reservation for all TGV trains (cost of 3 Euros per seat per train). Well when the SNCF conductor came by he smiled and told them the penalty for not having a reservation was 40 Euros (20 Euros each!!).
The trip to Reims is now only 45 minutes (with the introduction of the Eastern high speed network in June). Amazingly fast trip, you sit down and then it is time to get off the train!!!
Left Reims station and came upon the town Saturday market. Very interesting seeing the crowds and all the wonderful vegetables, fish, meat, breads, etc. for sale. This is what makes Europe so different and wonderful.
After the market went to the Champagne house that is closest to the train station/center of town: G.H. Mumm. We're lucky we managed to book a tour as they close for a 2 hour lunch break (so civilized). Interesting tour of how champagne was made and is presently made, the fascinating part for me was walking through a part of the 25 miles of underground cellars. Each alley has street name plaques just like in Paris. Our tour guide was very knowledgeable and attractive. We talked a bit about where each of us was from and that we were from Canada, but not Québec where everyone speaks French. She voiced the traditional European line, that Québec French is a funny language but not very nice to listen to. At the end of the tour had a champagne tasting. We bought a bottle of the Champagne we liked the best which was silly, as we had to carry it around all day and also some how fit it in our luggage.
On the tour we met a young Kiwi lawyer living and working in Paris (international arbitration). She spent most of her weekends off going on day trips outside of Paris. She was great as we could ask her lots of questions about what is was like for a foreigner to live in Paris (costs, accomodation, etc.). She could compare Paris to New Zealand as well as London as she had lived there also. She said that everything was more expensive in Paris than New Zealand, naturally, but that the Parisians have a higher quality of life than Londoners. We walked and talked with Anita all the way to the Cathedral and then said our goodbyes.
The Cathedral was very impressive, beautiful windows and great carvings on the exterior.
On the way to the Cathedral the town seemed so dead for a Saturday. All of the sidestreets weren't very attractive and were empty. The Cathedral had tourists but not as many as you would think. In the afternoon we found the main shopping street which historically they had tried to be a copy of Paris. Galeries Lafayette and all the major shops are on this street. Bought some French CD's at FNAC. Very busy, but turn a corner and nothing.
To get back had to take a ten minute train to the Champagne-Ardenne TGV staion. Many of the TGV trains do not stop at this station and it was great experiencing the thrill of seeing/hearing/feeling the trains flying through the stations at full speed. It was great seeing the grins on everyones face after the TGV train had gone through!!!
After dinner a Saturday evening walk on the Champs-Elysée. Very crowded but fun!! Went into the FNAC and Virgin stores to look at the French CD's & DVD's. Went into Sephora's again to look at more perfume/cologne. Bought some for Glen. Asked the opinion of the male sales clerk and he said I like this one because it is "FRESH". That one? "Not FRESH".
Finished our walk to Concorde and back to the apartment.
Encountered two young Americans in our reserved seats. They had a railpass but didn't know that you had to make a reservation for all TGV trains (cost of 3 Euros per seat per train). Well when the SNCF conductor came by he smiled and told them the penalty for not having a reservation was 40 Euros (20 Euros each!!).
The trip to Reims is now only 45 minutes (with the introduction of the Eastern high speed network in June). Amazingly fast trip, you sit down and then it is time to get off the train!!!
Left Reims station and came upon the town Saturday market. Very interesting seeing the crowds and all the wonderful vegetables, fish, meat, breads, etc. for sale. This is what makes Europe so different and wonderful.
After the market went to the Champagne house that is closest to the train station/center of town: G.H. Mumm. We're lucky we managed to book a tour as they close for a 2 hour lunch break (so civilized). Interesting tour of how champagne was made and is presently made, the fascinating part for me was walking through a part of the 25 miles of underground cellars. Each alley has street name plaques just like in Paris. Our tour guide was very knowledgeable and attractive. We talked a bit about where each of us was from and that we were from Canada, but not Québec where everyone speaks French. She voiced the traditional European line, that Québec French is a funny language but not very nice to listen to. At the end of the tour had a champagne tasting. We bought a bottle of the Champagne we liked the best which was silly, as we had to carry it around all day and also some how fit it in our luggage.
On the tour we met a young Kiwi lawyer living and working in Paris (international arbitration). She spent most of her weekends off going on day trips outside of Paris. She was great as we could ask her lots of questions about what is was like for a foreigner to live in Paris (costs, accomodation, etc.). She could compare Paris to New Zealand as well as London as she had lived there also. She said that everything was more expensive in Paris than New Zealand, naturally, but that the Parisians have a higher quality of life than Londoners. We walked and talked with Anita all the way to the Cathedral and then said our goodbyes.
The Cathedral was very impressive, beautiful windows and great carvings on the exterior.
On the way to the Cathedral the town seemed so dead for a Saturday. All of the sidestreets weren't very attractive and were empty. The Cathedral had tourists but not as many as you would think. In the afternoon we found the main shopping street which historically they had tried to be a copy of Paris. Galeries Lafayette and all the major shops are on this street. Bought some French CD's at FNAC. Very busy, but turn a corner and nothing.
To get back had to take a ten minute train to the Champagne-Ardenne TGV staion. Many of the TGV trains do not stop at this station and it was great experiencing the thrill of seeing/hearing/feeling the trains flying through the stations at full speed. It was great seeing the grins on everyones face after the TGV train had gone through!!!
After dinner a Saturday evening walk on the Champs-Elysée. Very crowded but fun!! Went into the FNAC and Virgin stores to look at the French CD's & DVD's. Went into Sephora's again to look at more perfume/cologne. Bought some for Glen. Asked the opinion of the male sales clerk and he said I like this one because it is "FRESH". That one? "Not FRESH".
Finished our walk to Concorde and back to the apartment.
10 August 2007
Day 15, vendredi, le 10 aout
Hoped the weather would be better today. Woke up to rain which stopped by the time we left however it was cloudy and unseasonably cold all day.
First a walk around Montmartre. Then to Madeleine. Spent some time at Fauchon's to look at the pricey gourmet food. After to Place Vendome, doesn't look like anything in the gray skies. Mary commented that she has really enjoyed the day trips out of Paris but finds the walking, traffic, noise, etc. of Paris less enjoyable. Think it would help if the sun would come out.
To change the pace took Mary to the Marais. Walked around some new streets. Spent some time in a park which has the largest and in the best condition of the Paris city wall/fortification built by Phillipe August.
After Mary went shopping for shoes and bought several pairs and I hung around.
Went to Paris Plages again, this time to see the ballroom dancing at Pont des Arts. While waiting watched kids doing wall climbing along the Seine embankment wall.
The dancing started at 17:00. Took some photos but don't know how good they'll be as it was very dark caused by the overcast/gray skies. One couple, two twin red headed elderly females, were a hoot to watch. They were dancing together and were identical from head to toe, from their hair colour and cut to the clothes and shoes they were wearing.
Back to Montmartre to get some groceries and have dinner.
Off to Reims tomorrow, hope the sun comes out!!!!!!
First a walk around Montmartre. Then to Madeleine. Spent some time at Fauchon's to look at the pricey gourmet food. After to Place Vendome, doesn't look like anything in the gray skies. Mary commented that she has really enjoyed the day trips out of Paris but finds the walking, traffic, noise, etc. of Paris less enjoyable. Think it would help if the sun would come out.
To change the pace took Mary to the Marais. Walked around some new streets. Spent some time in a park which has the largest and in the best condition of the Paris city wall/fortification built by Phillipe August.
After Mary went shopping for shoes and bought several pairs and I hung around.
Went to Paris Plages again, this time to see the ballroom dancing at Pont des Arts. While waiting watched kids doing wall climbing along the Seine embankment wall.
The dancing started at 17:00. Took some photos but don't know how good they'll be as it was very dark caused by the overcast/gray skies. One couple, two twin red headed elderly females, were a hoot to watch. They were dancing together and were identical from head to toe, from their hair colour and cut to the clothes and shoes they were wearing.
Back to Montmartre to get some groceries and have dinner.
Off to Reims tomorrow, hope the sun comes out!!!!!!
Day 14, jeudi, le 9 aout
Woke up very early today. Paris and most of France is covered in cloud, rain and cool temperatures. Is there anywhere in France that has sunny skies and warmer temperatures? Did I hear you say "what about Provence?" and yes you are right. Provence has had rain for the last few days but will be sunny today, and lucky for us we're off to Arles.
Took the high speed TGV train from Gare de Lyon. Very comfortable and very fast, well very fast until Lyon. To get to Arles, directly, after Lyon the train makes numerous stops at rather small towns and doesn't reach it's full speed as it isn't running on TGV track.
Arrive in Arles and discover, immediately, what a small town it is. What seems such a great distance on a map is only a few minutes walk.
Mary wanted to go to Arles to see all the Roman ruins. Of course it would have made more sense to go to Italy to see Roman ruins but I was told that French is not spoken there.
First Roman ruin we visted was the amphitheatre. Mary was disappointed. In order to have shows here they've put up railings and installed seats and therefore it doesn't look historically accurate. Having said that, if you get away from the center of the arena and walk between the outer walls and the seats you get a feel for the true arena the way it would have been in Roman times. Mary was quite moved.
After the amphitheatre and on the way to the outdoor theatre we came across a restaurant that was cooking paella on a large outdoor barbecue platter. Mary was instantly hooked. We were squished into our seats as the restaurant was immediately full. The meal was very good and at dessert time we started talking to the couple (same age as us) next to us. Mary in English, me in French, and the French couple in 75% French and 25% English. The conversation went on for a very long time and Mary was impressed by my ability to keep a conversation going in French and the couple saying I spoke very well. Of course Mary doesn't know how poorly I actually did. We did learn that the constant wind in Provence is called the "Mistral" and that it blows down the Rhone valley on a constant basis.
After our extended lunch went to the Roman theatre. This was more to Mary's liking as it was kept in it's original state.
Then a walk through the town stopping at some of the shops. Mary bought a couple of bags. One in front of the City Hall she spent what seemed like a half an hour to decide which colour to buy (the bag was selling for 3 Euros!!!)
Last Roman ruin was the Roman baths. They no longer were usable (no water) but were very interesting nonetheless.
On the way back to the train station had a look at the olive trees.
Train to Avignon Centre.
Ridiculously quick walk around Avignon as we have only two hours before we catch the train to Paris. Enough time to see the Palais des Papes (outside) and the Pont de Bezenet.
Then back to take a bus to go to the Avignon TGV station. The train ride is high speed all the way and direct to Paris - only two hours and forty-five minutes!!! Takes me longer to get to work some days!!!
Took the high speed TGV train from Gare de Lyon. Very comfortable and very fast, well very fast until Lyon. To get to Arles, directly, after Lyon the train makes numerous stops at rather small towns and doesn't reach it's full speed as it isn't running on TGV track.
Arrive in Arles and discover, immediately, what a small town it is. What seems such a great distance on a map is only a few minutes walk.
Mary wanted to go to Arles to see all the Roman ruins. Of course it would have made more sense to go to Italy to see Roman ruins but I was told that French is not spoken there.
First Roman ruin we visted was the amphitheatre. Mary was disappointed. In order to have shows here they've put up railings and installed seats and therefore it doesn't look historically accurate. Having said that, if you get away from the center of the arena and walk between the outer walls and the seats you get a feel for the true arena the way it would have been in Roman times. Mary was quite moved.
After the amphitheatre and on the way to the outdoor theatre we came across a restaurant that was cooking paella on a large outdoor barbecue platter. Mary was instantly hooked. We were squished into our seats as the restaurant was immediately full. The meal was very good and at dessert time we started talking to the couple (same age as us) next to us. Mary in English, me in French, and the French couple in 75% French and 25% English. The conversation went on for a very long time and Mary was impressed by my ability to keep a conversation going in French and the couple saying I spoke very well. Of course Mary doesn't know how poorly I actually did. We did learn that the constant wind in Provence is called the "Mistral" and that it blows down the Rhone valley on a constant basis.
After our extended lunch went to the Roman theatre. This was more to Mary's liking as it was kept in it's original state.
Then a walk through the town stopping at some of the shops. Mary bought a couple of bags. One in front of the City Hall she spent what seemed like a half an hour to decide which colour to buy (the bag was selling for 3 Euros!!!)
Last Roman ruin was the Roman baths. They no longer were usable (no water) but were very interesting nonetheless.
On the way back to the train station had a look at the olive trees.
Train to Avignon Centre.
Ridiculously quick walk around Avignon as we have only two hours before we catch the train to Paris. Enough time to see the Palais des Papes (outside) and the Pont de Bezenet.
Then back to take a bus to go to the Avignon TGV station. The train ride is high speed all the way and direct to Paris - only two hours and forty-five minutes!!! Takes me longer to get to work some days!!!
08 August 2007
Day 13, mercredi, le 8 aout
Woke up to a downpour. On the TV the weather girl used the term "comme Vancouver". Met two Canadians(Saskatoon)tourists huddling in our apartment building doorway to get out of the rain; Mary detected that they were Canadian when they said, "Sure is raining, eh?". They were finishing up a 24 day tour of Europe. They said it had been either too hot or too wet and cold (Paris). Sad that they were only in Paris for the day; we've been here for two weeks and that is too short.
Went to Ed's, a new supermarket that we've discovered with more reasonable prices. After went to Tati, the famous store for discount clothing, etc. Then headed off for Galeries Lafayette and Printemps. On the way helped two Russian girls who were trying for the first time to buy métro tickets and use the métro. Unfortunately they were at one of the few entrances that are unmanned and they couldn't use the automatic machine. We changed their bills for coins, bought them a carnet of tickets and showed them how the tickets and turnstiles worked. They were very grateful. I don't know how they are going to survive using the métro and getting around without a map and limited skills.
Went through some of the historic shopping passages, Galeries Lafayette (always love the amazing food floor), Printemps and Sephora (Parfumerie) where we sniffed our way through what seemed like a hundred bottles of perfume to find something that we think Katarina would like. Mary stopped at numerous shops looking for clothes, shoes and purses.
Back to the apartment for dinner and early bed. Have to get up extremely early tomorrow to get the TGV to Arles. At least I understand that it is sunny in Provence.
Went to Ed's, a new supermarket that we've discovered with more reasonable prices. After went to Tati, the famous store for discount clothing, etc. Then headed off for Galeries Lafayette and Printemps. On the way helped two Russian girls who were trying for the first time to buy métro tickets and use the métro. Unfortunately they were at one of the few entrances that are unmanned and they couldn't use the automatic machine. We changed their bills for coins, bought them a carnet of tickets and showed them how the tickets and turnstiles worked. They were very grateful. I don't know how they are going to survive using the métro and getting around without a map and limited skills.
Went through some of the historic shopping passages, Galeries Lafayette (always love the amazing food floor), Printemps and Sephora (Parfumerie) where we sniffed our way through what seemed like a hundred bottles of perfume to find something that we think Katarina would like. Mary stopped at numerous shops looking for clothes, shoes and purses.
Back to the apartment for dinner and early bed. Have to get up extremely early tomorrow to get the TGV to Arles. At least I understand that it is sunny in Provence.
07 August 2007
Day 12, mardi, le 7 aout
Well it is the official day of our 25th wedding anniversary!!! And the sun has come out!!! Quick off to Gare Montparnasse to take the train to Chartres. An elderly gentleman saw that we were "Canadians" and gave Mary a bouquet of flowers to hold while I took her picture, very sweet. When I went to Chartres last November (a dark dismal winter day) and entered the famous cathedral it was difficult to see your hand in front of your face. Today was a sunny day and it was still very dark inside. After a few minutes your eyes adjust and you can see the grandeur of the cathedral and the wonderful/famous stained glass windows with the "Chartres blue".
Afterwards back to Paris, first to reserve our final train trip seats. Interesting as had to deal with a "Summer Employee". He wasn't an expert at his job and I wasn't an expert at speaking French. Then a trip through St. Germain. First St. Sulpice church made famous in the Da Vinci Code. Funny that tourists are entering this church because of a book/movie that is negative to the Catholic church!!!
After to the church St. Germain de Pres. Then a walk along Boulevard St Germain. Unfortunately it had now clouded over. We stumbled upon (or was it planned) my favourite store in Paris, the Album stores. They contain all the "BD" books and figurines including Tintin. Mary was smitten by a Tintin/Milou figure and asked me to buy it. Had a long conversation with the clerk about the availability and cost of Tintin products in Canada and finding out we were from Canada offered to complete the lengthy forms required to get some of the VAT back. Just hope it works.
Then headed to Jardin du Luxembourg. On the way walked by the Panthenon and several shoe shops. Jardin du Luxembourg was very beautiful with all of the flowers in bloom. Unfortunately the sky was dark, about to rain and everything looked grey. Hope we can return on a sunny day before we have to head home.
Back to the apartment and out for anniversary dinner. Picked Le Maquis near métro Lamarck. Written up in great eats Paris. Very friendly and great food. Mary had too much to drink and unfortunately started acting strange trying to conjugate French verbs on the walk home.
Our dinner was:
Mary-
Spinach salad
Leg of Lamb
Chocolate dessert (was incredible)
Gord-
Hot goat cheese salad
Veal kidneys
Raspberry tart
I think I won the "when in Paris..." award with my goat cheese/kidney selections!!
Pouring down rain to end the evening.
Afterwards back to Paris, first to reserve our final train trip seats. Interesting as had to deal with a "Summer Employee". He wasn't an expert at his job and I wasn't an expert at speaking French. Then a trip through St. Germain. First St. Sulpice church made famous in the Da Vinci Code. Funny that tourists are entering this church because of a book/movie that is negative to the Catholic church!!!
After to the church St. Germain de Pres. Then a walk along Boulevard St Germain. Unfortunately it had now clouded over. We stumbled upon (or was it planned) my favourite store in Paris, the Album stores. They contain all the "BD" books and figurines including Tintin. Mary was smitten by a Tintin/Milou figure and asked me to buy it. Had a long conversation with the clerk about the availability and cost of Tintin products in Canada and finding out we were from Canada offered to complete the lengthy forms required to get some of the VAT back. Just hope it works.
Then headed to Jardin du Luxembourg. On the way walked by the Panthenon and several shoe shops. Jardin du Luxembourg was very beautiful with all of the flowers in bloom. Unfortunately the sky was dark, about to rain and everything looked grey. Hope we can return on a sunny day before we have to head home.
Back to the apartment and out for anniversary dinner. Picked Le Maquis near métro Lamarck. Written up in great eats Paris. Very friendly and great food. Mary had too much to drink and unfortunately started acting strange trying to conjugate French verbs on the walk home.
Our dinner was:
Mary-
Spinach salad
Leg of Lamb
Chocolate dessert (was incredible)
Gord-
Hot goat cheese salad
Veal kidneys
Raspberry tart
I think I won the "when in Paris..." award with my goat cheese/kidney selections!!
Pouring down rain to end the evening.
06 August 2007
Day 11, lundi, le 6 aout
Pouring with rain this morning, including thunder and lightening. Funny thing no water in the apartment as they are doing repairs.
What to do on a rainy Monday, well most of the museums are are closed except for the Louvre. So off we go, including, it appears, every other tourist in Paris.
In November or May visiting the Louvre is quite wonderful, in the Summer it is, if you don't like crowds, awful. Everyone heads for the Denon wing to see the Mona Lisa!!! In winter you can stand in front of the Mona Lisa and look at it for minutes. This time there were hundreds of people between you and the painting. When it is less crowded they enforce the no photo rule in this area, but impossible to enforce with the crowds!!!! The staff must hate to have to work in the summer months!! We didn't want to be in this area except for Mary wishing to see a few paintings in this room.
After lunch, eating a baguette while sitting on the Louvre floor, we headed to the Richelieu wing to see the French sculptures in the two courtyards. Suddenly there was room and not very many people. No tour groups of fifty people!!!! It was quite wonderful. After that to the Napoleon III apartments, once again no crowds here. Our Louvre visit started with crowds, pushing and shoving, but ended with a few positive hours.
After the Louvre a walk through Les Halles, stop at E. Dehillerin (cooking supply store) and St-Eustache. The sculpture in front of the church has been vandalized with graffiti, so very sad.
Kept walking and went into Leroy Merlin, a home renovation store. Very interesting to see the equivalent of a Home Depot.
After back to the apartment to have high-priced italian takeout.
What to do on a rainy Monday, well most of the museums are are closed except for the Louvre. So off we go, including, it appears, every other tourist in Paris.
In November or May visiting the Louvre is quite wonderful, in the Summer it is, if you don't like crowds, awful. Everyone heads for the Denon wing to see the Mona Lisa!!! In winter you can stand in front of the Mona Lisa and look at it for minutes. This time there were hundreds of people between you and the painting. When it is less crowded they enforce the no photo rule in this area, but impossible to enforce with the crowds!!!! The staff must hate to have to work in the summer months!! We didn't want to be in this area except for Mary wishing to see a few paintings in this room.
After lunch, eating a baguette while sitting on the Louvre floor, we headed to the Richelieu wing to see the French sculptures in the two courtyards. Suddenly there was room and not very many people. No tour groups of fifty people!!!! It was quite wonderful. After that to the Napoleon III apartments, once again no crowds here. Our Louvre visit started with crowds, pushing and shoving, but ended with a few positive hours.
After the Louvre a walk through Les Halles, stop at E. Dehillerin (cooking supply store) and St-Eustache. The sculpture in front of the church has been vandalized with graffiti, so very sad.
Kept walking and went into Leroy Merlin, a home renovation store. Very interesting to see the equivalent of a Home Depot.
After back to the apartment to have high-priced italian takeout.
05 August 2007
Day 10, dimanche, le 5 aout
Will be 35 degrees today and already very hot this morning. Had planned to go to the flea market / marché aux puces this morning and Chateau de Vincennes this afternoon but because of the heat, will be going to the market this morning for a few hours and then stay out of the heat at the appt this afternoon.
The flea market was interesting. On the peripherary you find street merchants selling clothes, CD's and other low priced items. It is a very festive atmosphere, very crowded, with all ethnic groups. In the official markets you find all of the "antique" furniture, ceramics, etc. I thought I could pickup something for 100 Euros but everything I saw and liked was around 500 to 800 Euros. A little pricey for a whim purchase.
In the early evening, still very hot, took ligne 1 to Chateau Vincennes. Couldn't go inside but interesting walk around the exterior. After, a walk around the Hotel de Ville, Plages de Paris, Pyramide du Louvre and the Fun Fair along Rue de Rivoli/Tuileries.
The flea market was interesting. On the peripherary you find street merchants selling clothes, CD's and other low priced items. It is a very festive atmosphere, very crowded, with all ethnic groups. In the official markets you find all of the "antique" furniture, ceramics, etc. I thought I could pickup something for 100 Euros but everything I saw and liked was around 500 to 800 Euros. A little pricey for a whim purchase.
In the early evening, still very hot, took ligne 1 to Chateau Vincennes. Couldn't go inside but interesting walk around the exterior. After, a walk around the Hotel de Ville, Plages de Paris, Pyramide du Louvre and the Fun Fair along Rue de Rivoli/Tuileries.
04 August 2007
Day 9, samedi, le 4 aout
Off to métro St-Denis Basilique to see Cathedral St. Denis. This is the cathedral where all but three of the French Kings were buried. The cathedral was founded when St. Denis was decaptitated in Montmartre for being a Christian, he picked his head up, put it under his arm and walked all the way to St. Denis (which is quite the distance, even by métro). Mary loved the cathedral and the history.
Door - Basilique Saint-Denis
After, we went back to central Paris to walk along the Paris Plage starting at Pont Neuf. It was the hottest day so far (28 to 30 degrees) and was very difficult to keep on walking in the heat. We had a great italian ice on the beach. They skillfully made each cone into the shape of a flower!!!
Flower ice cream being enjoyed
Interesting head waiting in line for ice cream
After the walk along the Seine and the artificial beach we walked on Ile St-Louis. By now Mary was fading fast. A quick walk over to Ile Notre-Dame to see the huge crowd of tourists and then back to the apartment for dinner and Mary to sleep. I'm spending the evening writing this blog.
Unfortunately the forecast for tomorrow is for temperatures close to 35 degrees!!!
Door - Basilique Saint-Denis
After, we went back to central Paris to walk along the Paris Plage starting at Pont Neuf. It was the hottest day so far (28 to 30 degrees) and was very difficult to keep on walking in the heat. We had a great italian ice on the beach. They skillfully made each cone into the shape of a flower!!!
Flower ice cream being enjoyed
Interesting head waiting in line for ice cream
After the walk along the Seine and the artificial beach we walked on Ile St-Louis. By now Mary was fading fast. A quick walk over to Ile Notre-Dame to see the huge crowd of tourists and then back to the apartment for dinner and Mary to sleep. I'm spending the evening writing this blog.
Unfortunately the forecast for tomorrow is for temperatures close to 35 degrees!!!
Day 8, vendredi, le 3 aout
Off to Rouen on a non-TGV train. Not as fast but still great. Takes an hour and fifteen minutes from Gare St-Lazare.
Rouen - Le Gros Horloge
We rented an audio guide which let Mary know about all of the important historic sites in the town. Spent alot of time in the Cathedral. It was so beautiful with the sunshine streaming through the windows. Last November I could hardly see my hand in front of my face.
Very nice City, not as touristy as Strasbourg but still highly recommended. The half-timbered buildings are everywhere and are very picturesque. Saw the location where Jeanne d'Arc was burned for heresy. Also went into the tourist trap of a museum, but still interesting from my point of view, though not Mary's.
Mary likes these day trips as:
1) no hills (like Montmartre);
2) no métro steps to climb;
3) get to rest/sleep on the train.
In the evening walked around Montmartre to take some night photos. I was amazed by the crowds as hadn't seen anything like this on previous visits in the months of November/May.
Montmartre - The view from the "Montmartre Bus" bus stop returning to our apartment on rue Cortot with Sacré Coeur in the distance.
Montmartre - Going back to our apartment - Walking up from métro Lamarck from Place Dalida with the Café "La Maison Rose" and Sacré Coeur in the distance.
Rouen - Le Gros Horloge
We rented an audio guide which let Mary know about all of the important historic sites in the town. Spent alot of time in the Cathedral. It was so beautiful with the sunshine streaming through the windows. Last November I could hardly see my hand in front of my face.
Very nice City, not as touristy as Strasbourg but still highly recommended. The half-timbered buildings are everywhere and are very picturesque. Saw the location where Jeanne d'Arc was burned for heresy. Also went into the tourist trap of a museum, but still interesting from my point of view, though not Mary's.
Mary likes these day trips as:
1) no hills (like Montmartre);
2) no métro steps to climb;
3) get to rest/sleep on the train.
In the evening walked around Montmartre to take some night photos. I was amazed by the crowds as hadn't seen anything like this on previous visits in the months of November/May.
Montmartre - The view from the "Montmartre Bus" bus stop returning to our apartment on rue Cortot with Sacré Coeur in the distance.
Montmartre - Going back to our apartment - Walking up from métro Lamarck from Place Dalida with the Café "La Maison Rose" and Sacré Coeur in the distance.
Day 7, jeudi, le 2 aout
A rather/off wasted day. So sad.
My vertigo was acting up so was having difficulty going up/down stairs, etc.
Went to Gare de Lyon, Place Bastille, the Marais. Had lunch at the café, Fontaine de Sully, where Mary and I had our first meal in Paris some years ago.
With my vertigo, the meal and wine, I was totally out of it and gradually after a bit of a walk in the Marais and to Place des Vosges went back to the apartment where I collapsed and went to sleep.
Hotel Sully - Le Marais
My vertigo was acting up so was having difficulty going up/down stairs, etc.
Went to Gare de Lyon, Place Bastille, the Marais. Had lunch at the café, Fontaine de Sully, where Mary and I had our first meal in Paris some years ago.
With my vertigo, the meal and wine, I was totally out of it and gradually after a bit of a walk in the Marais and to Place des Vosges went back to the apartment where I collapsed and went to sleep.
Hotel Sully - Le Marais
Day 6, mercredi, le 1 aout
Off to Strasbourg. Had to hurry like crazy to get to the train on time!!!
Strasbourg was beautiful last November/December but was even more beautiful with the planted baskets in full bloom. The train station has been upgraded, but not quite complete, to accomodate the new Eastern TGV service (used to take more than four hours, now only two hours 20 minutes!!!).
Spent hours walking around le Petit France and the area around the Cathedral. Unfortunately there was construction at the squares, Place Kleber in particular.
Had lunch at Le Gruber restaurant where I had a traditional Alsace specialty of various sausages/fatty meats on a pile of sauerkraut, Yum!!!
Mary bought her first souvenirs here, which is quite a landmark as Mary doesn't like souvenirs or spending money that she doesn't have to.
Strasbourg was beautiful last November/December but was even more beautiful with the planted baskets in full bloom. The train station has been upgraded, but not quite complete, to accomodate the new Eastern TGV service (used to take more than four hours, now only two hours 20 minutes!!!).
Spent hours walking around le Petit France and the area around the Cathedral. Unfortunately there was construction at the squares, Place Kleber in particular.
Had lunch at Le Gruber restaurant where I had a traditional Alsace specialty of various sausages/fatty meats on a pile of sauerkraut, Yum!!!
Mary bought her first souvenirs here, which is quite a landmark as Mary doesn't like souvenirs or spending money that she doesn't have to.
Day 5, mardi, le 31 juillet
Didn't plan it this way but today ended up being the day we visited cemeteries.
First to St-Vincent's in Montmartre just a quick walk from our apartment. Very small but a quiet oasis secluded from the outside.
Then to Montmartre Cemetery which Mary had been to before but I wanted her to see the grave of Dalida, don't think she was impressed.
Then off to Pere-Lachaise. Mary's first time. The place was filled with tourists. Very warm but also very calm to be there, in some ways more of a beautiful park than a cemetery. Did the quick route as Mary was tired, all the walking and fresh air was having its toll. Saw some of my favouite graves including that of Edith Piaf. Interesting overhearing an American family reading the bio of Piaf trying to determine why her grave was important and who she was!!!!
After the cemeteries off the Place de la Republique and a walk along the Canal St-Martin up to the Antoine & Lilly store. Then through a very African neighbourhood where everyone was in salons getting their hair done. Around a corner to Passage Brady where it goes from African to Indian, this passage is full of Indian restaurants and food stores. Stop at Arch St. Denis and then to rue d'Abbesses to pickup food for dinner.
That evening off to the Eglise Madeleine to listen to a concert of Violin pieces (more greatest hits) and Ave Maria's. Not as good as the concert at Ste-Chapelle but no fault of the performers. The Madeleine is too large and echoey. Also you could hear the rumble of the métro trains every few minutes.
First to St-Vincent's in Montmartre just a quick walk from our apartment. Very small but a quiet oasis secluded from the outside.
Then to Montmartre Cemetery which Mary had been to before but I wanted her to see the grave of Dalida, don't think she was impressed.
Then off to Pere-Lachaise. Mary's first time. The place was filled with tourists. Very warm but also very calm to be there, in some ways more of a beautiful park than a cemetery. Did the quick route as Mary was tired, all the walking and fresh air was having its toll. Saw some of my favouite graves including that of Edith Piaf. Interesting overhearing an American family reading the bio of Piaf trying to determine why her grave was important and who she was!!!!
After the cemeteries off the Place de la Republique and a walk along the Canal St-Martin up to the Antoine & Lilly store. Then through a very African neighbourhood where everyone was in salons getting their hair done. Around a corner to Passage Brady where it goes from African to Indian, this passage is full of Indian restaurants and food stores. Stop at Arch St. Denis and then to rue d'Abbesses to pickup food for dinner.
That evening off to the Eglise Madeleine to listen to a concert of Violin pieces (more greatest hits) and Ave Maria's. Not as good as the concert at Ste-Chapelle but no fault of the performers. The Madeleine is too large and echoey. Also you could hear the rumble of the métro trains every few minutes.
Day 4 - lundi, le 30 juillet
Off to Arras and Vimy Ridge.
Took the TGV from Gare du Nord, Mary was quite impressed!!
Arrived early in Arras to see the town before our guided tour of Vimy Ridge starting at 1:00pm. Well ran into our guide on arrival and he said there was a wee bit of a problem and that our tour wouldn't start until 2pm. Well we walked around Arras but it was a Monday and most everything was closed either because it was Monday or they were on their "annual" vacation starting in July/August.
Well Ian didn't show at 2pm and had to give him a call, he finally arrived at 2:40. Thankfully Vimy Ridge was everything Mary thought it would be. Ian was an okay guy after all but I was certainly worried thinking that it might be a waste of a day!!!!
Took the TGV from Gare du Nord, Mary was quite impressed!!
Arrived early in Arras to see the town before our guided tour of Vimy Ridge starting at 1:00pm. Well ran into our guide on arrival and he said there was a wee bit of a problem and that our tour wouldn't start until 2pm. Well we walked around Arras but it was a Monday and most everything was closed either because it was Monday or they were on their "annual" vacation starting in July/August.
Well Ian didn't show at 2pm and had to give him a call, he finally arrived at 2:40. Thankfully Vimy Ridge was everything Mary thought it would be. Ian was an okay guy after all but I was certainly worried thinking that it might be a waste of a day!!!!
Day 3 - Dimanche, le 29 Juillet
Poured rain this morning, which was okay as hard to get up after a late night and getting over jet lag (and climbing the stairs!!!)
Went for lunch at Leon's of Brussels at Place de Clichy. Mussels and beer! Then off to métro Passy to stand on pont Bir-Hakeim to wait for the Tour de France pieton. And wait and wait.
Finally they arrived and it was over in a few seconds.
Went for lunch at Leon's of Brussels at Place de Clichy. Mussels and beer! Then off to métro Passy to stand on pont Bir-Hakeim to wait for the Tour de France pieton. And wait and wait.
Finally they arrived and it was over in a few seconds.
Day 2 - Samedi, le 28 Juillet
Started off with some rain on and off. I went for a walk to get our Carte Orange métro passes arranged and check out my old neighbourhood. Got back with the passes and some bakery goodies. Off with Mary for a quick walk down rue Abbesses and rue Lepic (saw Maison Collignon and Café de Deux Moulins) and then off to Place de la Concorde. Had a baguette Sandwich and then off to the L'Órangerie to see the Monet's, Renoir's, Cezanne's, Derain's, Picasso's and on. On the way back to the apartment stopped off at the Franprix (five minutes from métro Lamarck) to pick up groceries. Mary napped, then dinner. Then off to Ste-Chapelle to see Les Archets of Paris perform Vivaldi's Four Seasons and other classical hits in quite a magical setting. Mary was quite thrilled with the concert and bought one of their CD's (signed). Plus for the tour guide. After went to the ugly Tour Montparnasse (a tall office tower) and wait for the sunset and the lights of the city to come on. Should have brought my tripod as very difficult to take any pictures without. Lots of German tourists!
Day 1 - 25th Anniversary Trip - Paris
Thursday, July 26 Depart
Friday, July 27 Arrive
Off to Paris to celebrate our 25th wedding anniversary. Yes I know I was in Paris just last November, but marriage is about compromise, and Mary thought a trip to Paris and other towns in France was a great idea. And she didn't have to pay for a tour guide as she had me along. The flight on Zoom to Roissy/Charles de Gaulle was okay except for two things: 1) they mixed up seats for the passengers coming on board in Calgary and 2) it took over one hour for our baggage to arrive at the rather spartan Terminal 3. The trip on the RER was quite easy and our arrival at our apartment at 3 rue Cortot, Montmartre by taxi from Gare du Nord was quick except for driving through the crowds near Sacré Coeur. Nichole was there to meet and greet us and show us around. The apartment is on top of Montmartre very close to the "overly touristy" area around Sacré Coeur and Place du Tertre. I preferred the apartment on rue Lepic near métro Blanche but Mary didn't want to sleep on a sofa bed for seventeen nights. And this one comes with a washer/dryer in the apartment and a dishwasher (built into the stove).
The view from our balcony of the roofs of is wonderful. Will have to get used to walking up the hills/stairs from métro Lamarck-Caulaincourt.
We're across from the Musée Montmartre waking up to the tricolours of the French flag.
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